Check the Rome, Venice, and Padova galleries for more.

I’ve gotten to Graz. We were in Venice the past few days, but I’ll get to all of that shortly.

I left you in Rome. Second day we were supposed to tour Ancient Rome, but that was sort of screwed up by a huge parade celebrating Italy’s unification (June 2). Saw the Colosseum, then walked back by way of the Pantheon (closed by that time due to the holiday), the Spanish Steps, and the Trevi Fountain, where I did the obligatory coin throw (backwards, over the shoulder) to ensure my return.

Next day we checked out a bunch of Roman churches, nothing spectactular. Until the last one. S. Ignazio di Loyola (might have the exact name wrong), the Jesuit home church, is called by Rick Steves’ guide a “riot of Baroque illusions.” Most impressive is the dome, which, upon walking under it, you realize does not exist. Really worth seeing if you are ever in Rome. That night, we celebrated one of the other group member’s birthday out at the Spanish Steps. Over half the group (26 of us) sang “Happy Birthday” out loud in public. All sorts of fun.

Went to Venice the next day, which took all day. That evening I walked to S. Marco (St. Mark’s), the main square of Venice. I then attempted to walk back, ending up back at S. Marco. I then attempted to walk back, nearly ending up back at S. Marco when I ran into Dr. Haydon and Joe. We eventually got back to the hotel.

Next day, visited (with the group) the Accademia dell Belle Arte, and our first modern art museum, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. However, the crowded, touristy nature of Venice was really getting to me, and having spent two weeks with the group I really wanted some time to myself, so I didn’t really do anything that evening after dinner.

The following day was the group’s day trip to Padova by train. We went in order to see the Scrovegni Chapel, the only known complete cycle of works by Giotto. Very impressive. Also impressive was that it was the most carefully preserved art in Italy, with the entire chapel having its own microclimate, visitations limited to 25 people every 30 minutes, and each trip inside the chapel limited to 15. They’ve made it all very high-tech. After seeing the chapel, I set off on my own through the streets of Padova to find St. Anthony’s Basilica. I eventually did, by way of the river and a fruit market; not the direct route. Found the church, very interesting place. Did not see the relics (that chapel was closed at the time I was there) but did see St. Anthony’s tomb. Tried to get back to the train station; ended up walking in a loop back to St. Anthony’s. Tried again by a different route, stopping about 1 km away from the church in a tobacconist’s shop to ask directions, and turns out I got it right the second time. Hopped the train back to Venice, and once again didn’t do anything that evening, having decided that Padova was way cooler than Venice.

Next day. Went to the Basilica dei Frari (Church of the Friars, I think), which was a cool church with a lot of great art. We happened to be there while the parochial school students were rehearsing for an end-of-year choral performance, which was pretty cool. Kids were cute; there’s a photo in the gallery. Took a vaporetto (the water bus) from there to S. Marco, but didn’t go in because I didn’t feel like waiting in line.

That was when my Venice changed. I went to a vaporetto station that had service to Murano island, where the famous glass is made. The boats were different, for one, better suited to the open lagoon than the more flatwater-oriented vaporetti that work along the Grand Canal. The boat ride was absolutely amazing, skirting the coast of Venice, seeing the beautiful southeast part of the island, past S. Marco. Trees instead of buildings, grass even. Decided I’d go back after Murano. Met some other students at the last stop before the boat headed across the lagoon, then went to Murano. Saw some really cool glass and even a glassblowing demonstration. Went back to S. Elena, the stop I had picked out earlier, and walked around that part of Venice on my own. Away from the crowds and the tourists, Venice started to make sense.

I eventually found my way to the north end of the island, and decided to finish the circumnavigation of the island on the open lagoon vaporetto. It was in S. Elena and on the open water that I found my Venice.

That evening, we went to a concert by the Interpreti Veneziani of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons, and a couple other pieces. Absolutely amazing performance. They are a small chamber group, about eight people, and the concert was in a pretty small church. Really cool; I bought a CD. The cellist was particularly entertaining, with exaggerated head motions that were completely senseless; Dr. Haydon described it as “posessed by the music.”

Today we went from Venice to Graz, a relatively short trip. Austria so far is pretty cool. It’s unfortunate, I think, that we are only spending a day in Graz, as it is a surprisingly interesting and very picturesque place. I’ll tell more about it after I’ve seen it tomorrow.

Other than my Venetian depression, the trip has been amazing. I’ve got a midterm paper to finish, so I’ll leave you for now. Auf wiederschen!